Grounds Without Games: FK Ventspils

Ventspils Stadions, as I found out later, is the ground where Newcastle didn't play (their UEFA Cup tie was switched to Skonto Stadions in Riga, no doubt due to the fact that Ventspils has more trees around the pitch than stands). A short walk south of the bus station, it's apparently one of the "most famous football stadia in the Latvia". Access on non-match days is by hop over the turnstiles.

Latvian Football

The 2009 Vrsliga season kicks-off a month earlier than usual, in the middle of March. In Riga, this means the first two weeks need to be played indoors at the Olympic Sports Centre, starting with next Saturday's double header between SK Blāzma and Skonto Riga (2pm) and Olimpics Riga against SK Liepājas Metalurgs (6pm). The following day, champions Ventspils begin their title defence against FK Daugava Riga at the same venue (2pm).

With one thing and another, I won't get to see a game at Skonto Stadions until the back end of April.

Grounds Without Games: Stirling Albion

"So it was with great pride that Stirling Albion moved into their brand new stadium - one of the most modern stadiums in Scotland".
A decade and a half on, Forthbank no longer looks quite so cutting edge. One of a rash of new stadiums handily sited on the arse end of nowhere (think Bolton or Middlesbrough), it's hemmed in by retail units, miles from the town centre but just a left turn away from a Morrisons and a Pizza Hut.

Ground 107: Olympic Sports Centre, Riga

An unexpected bit of Baltic football - and free too. Coughed and spluttered on by a crowd of around fifty, Latvia's Under-19s beat their Lithuanian counterparts one-nil thanks to some comedy defending midway through the second half. There wasn't much to interest Dennis Wise: Lithuania had a couple of mildly inventive forwards while the home side were uniformally awful. If this is the best of Latvia's young talent, the chances of them repeating their Euro 2004 qualification are about as good as Newcastle winning the Champions League.

Date: February 15th 2009
Entrance: Free

Grounds Without Games: Viktoria Plzeň

I snuck in to the Struncovy Sady Stadion in February 2007, on my way to visit the Pilsner Urquell Brewery (virtually next door and much more appealing). It's one of those awful municipal stadiums built to accommodate as many sports as possible without suiting any of them. The capacity is seven and a half thousand, with the obligatory running track spoiling the view of the pitch and three out of the four stands open to the elements.

When you're a fan of a team as bad as Plzeň, the least you could expect is a little bit of comfort.

Skonto Stadions

The pitch at Skonto Stadions, arctic home of ex-champs Skonto Riga and the Latvian national team. So that's why there's no winter football in the Baltics.


The ground's just outside central Riga, was built nine years ago, has three permanent stands and holds just under ten thousand spectators - more than enough for the kind of crowds domestic football currently attracts.

St James' Park Gallery

On the pitch at last. The Gallowgate End, where I first watched football and had my last season ticket.



In the changing rooms. Every team has a weak link - ours more than most.

The view from the East Stand posh seats. Newcastle United versus Coventry City, FA Cup, 2005.


My last visit to St James', a two-all draw with Derby County in the dying days of Fat Sam. The skyline was infinitely more entertaining than the pitch. For all his attempts at revisionism, watching Newcastle under Allardyce was more punishment than pleasure.